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In January 2024, Circul'R announced the creation of a coalition bringing together 13 major industry brands (Aderma, Aroma-Zone, Avène, CHANEL Parfums Beauté, Clarins, Ducray, Estée Lauder Companies for the Clinique brand, Laboratoires SVR, La Rosée, Lancôme, Melvita, Vichy, Yves Rocher) and 2 distributors (Nocibé and Sephora) to explore the opportunities and challenges of setting up a re-use system for skincare products.
After several months' work in partnership with the We Don't Need Roads consultancy and the eco-organization Citeo, which is funding the project and providing operational expertise, the project is moving into the point-of-sale trial phase. This initiative reflects the industry's collective determination to reduce single-use packaging, in line with the ambitions of the AGEC law, which sets a target of 7% of packaging reused by 2025, and 10% by 2027.
PROMOTE A NEW CONSUMER EXPERIENCE
The re-use experiment for cosmetic containers started in 8 outlets across France from September 2024, with expansion planned for 2025. The project includes almost a hundred references (skincare creams, serums, food supplements, shower gels, shampoos, etc.) which have been selected to cover consumers' daily needs and encourage them to opt for reuse.
In order to ensure a smooth and stimulating experience, point-of-sale displays have been set up in the points of sale involved in the experiment, providing information on the collection system and the products concerned. After use, customers will be able to return their empty containers in exchange for an immediate financial reward, adapted according to product type. In early 2025, the project will be extended to almost 40 Sephora and Nocibé stores across France. Another incentive mechanism is also being tested. Consumers will be invited to return their containers at the checkout in exchange for 50 loyalty points4.
OVERCOMING THE CHALLENGES INHERENT IN THE REEMPLOYMENT SYSTEM
Introducing a reuse model requires a profound rethink of the supply chain, in particular reverse logistics and container washing, two essential pillars to guarantee the viability of reuse on a large scale. Since the launch of the coalition last January, intensive work, led by Circul'R experts and Arnaud Lancelot (founder of Cozie and current director at We Don't Need Roads), is helping to identify how to overcome these challenges.
As part of the experiment, containers are transported from points of sale to sorting and washing centers using a shared transport system, thus optimizing logistics flows. Once at the sorting center, the packaging is counted, sorted and then directed towards reuse or recycling, depending on its compatibility for washing." . At the same time, R&D tests are carried out to identify the best washing methods for each type of cosmetic container, and to check the physical, aesthetic and microbiological quality of the wash. Once validated, these processes will enable washing on a larger scale from mid-2025, after the first collection from points of sale.
MEASURE ECONOMIC AND ENVIRONMENTAL BENEFITS
The aim of this experiment is to analyze the real environmental and economic benefits of reusing cosmetic containers. To this end, based on the data collected during this pilot project, life cycle analyses (LCA) are being carried out to compare, among other environmental impact criteria, CO2 emissions, water consumption and energy between single-use and reusable models.
At the same time, a sector-wide economic model will be carried out in 2025, with the aim of identifying the conditions for the economic performance of a large-scale reuse system. Finally, a consumer study, combining quantitative and qualitative tests, will be launched to understand consumer appetence, collect feedback from the outlets involved, and thus identify potential brakes and levers to the adoption of the reuse model.
According to Arnaud Lancelot, Director at We Don't Need Roads, "This experimental phase is a key opportunity to gather learning on the feasibility of reusing cosmetic containers. The aim is to gain a better understanding of its impacts, so that we can adjust our approaches based on the results obtained and consider deployment on a larger scale."
According to Jules Coignard, co-founder of Circul'R, "This pilot project reflects a shared desire to explore innovative solutions, while remaining aligned with consumer expectations and future regulatory developments. Thanks to the collaboration of brands and retailers and their commitment to working together, we are taking a first step towards a more global transformation of the industry."
Press contact
Sara Bonnet - sara.bonnet@circul-r.com - 06 08 68 56 83
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